Keeping in mind the idea that “guineas are not chickens,” the coop design that will appeal to guinea fowl is different from coops designed to appeal to chickens.

This doesn’t mean that you can’t house chickens and guineas together. Both are tolerant of a range of coop designs, and compromises can be made to appeal to both. But, because guineas don’t instinctively go into a building to roost, as chickens instinctively do, it makes sense to make the coop as appealing as possible to the guineas.

It helps to understand that the two species evolved in very different environments. Guineas evolved on the grasslands of sub-Saharan Africa. Their ancestors roosted in trees at night. They are drawn to height, light, and a good line of sight when they’re looking to roost.

Chickens evolved in the jungle areas of Asia. They, too, roosted off the ground, but typically in low shrubs, 4 or so feet off the ground. Their idea of a safe place to roost is someplace dark and secluded. Chickens are not afraid to go into a small, dark opening to find a roosting spot, whereas that kind of visual will send a guinea darting away.

The purpose of any coop is to keep your birds safe from predators, rodents and weather extremes. Because we’ve imported guinea fowl into environments that they’re not equipped for, with different weather conditions and nighttime predators, they won’t last long if allowed to roost outdoors. Probably no single weather event will take them out, but over time, exposure to extreme weather conditions will take a toll on your flock. And weather extremes are becoming more common in recent years, in every part of the world. Guineas don’t have the body fat or downy feathers of birds that evolved in the various areas we’ve imported them into. They are especially vulnerable to the combination of cold, wet conditions.

Guineas are quite night-blind, so guineas roosting in trees are virtually “sitting ducks” for nighttime predators to pick off.

Those of you whose grandparents kept guineas probably remember that they roosted in the trees, and they did just fine. And even the chicken coops of that era were no match for the fortifications we provide for our flocks today.

There are a number of reasons why what worked then will not be as successful today. A major factor is the human encroachment into previously undeveloped areas, resulting in less habitat and hunting grounds for coyotes, fox, raccoons, bears, bobcats, etc. These animals have become braver around humans, more tolerant of our presence, and less fearful of human scent and sounds. As well, their diminished hunting territory forces them to venture into our territory for food.

Back in our grandparents’ day, there were probably several yard dogs or livestock guardian dogs roaming the property, keeping the livestock safe at night.

Finally, the reason for keeping guinea fowl has changed. Once kept primarily for meat, eggs, and their value as an alarm system, they are now primarily kept for insect-control. We want our little bug-eaters to live for as long as possible, rather than just until they are ready for butchering.

Location

Your first decision is where to place your coop. In the best of all worlds, it will be close enough to your house for you to manage it: letting the birds out each morning, closing them in each night, daily light cleaning and the periodic major cleaning. Think about all the bad-weather conditions when you’ll want the shortest possible walk to the coop. As the same time, if you’re sensitive to noise, you won’t want your guineas roosting just outside your bedroom window.

Take advantage of passive solar design by planning the coop’s site to maximize sun and wind. In the northern hemisphere, this usually means a south-facing exposure with windows in the south wall. This affords the most sunshine for winter warmth, and takes advantage of the prevailing southerly winds in the summer, while keeping out the cold (often wet) north winds.

Ideally, your coop will be shaded in the warmest months and sunny during the cold months.

One other consideration is your property’s natural water flow. Choose a spot where water doesn’t pond, that doesn’t stay wet after rain, and where water doesn’t flow through. Good drainage is important to prevent the flooring materials from rotting and to assist with keeping the interior of the coop from accumulating moisture and humidity.

You can improve the drainage under the coop using sand and gravel and by elevating the coop if needed.

Roof overhangs provide shade to those south windows during the hottest summer months, as well as help keep rain from coming in the windows.

Design Elements

You’ll want a big door for guinea fowl – not a small pop-out poultry door that you’ll see on cute little backyard-chicken-type prebuilt coops. While you’re at it, make the door not just big enough for you, but big enough to get a wheelbarrow inside.

If you must have a ramp to your coop, make it a nice wide ramp of gentle slope. While you’re training your guineas to go into the coop at night, they’ll take any excuse to become flighty, and a small door, skinny ramp, and a steep slope will all make it harder to get them in without triggering their flight response.

One more thing about ramps: Close off the underneath space, to eliminate a game of round-and-round the mulberry bush as you try to herd your guineas in while they’re being trained.

Guineas like more space and more height than chickens do. The higher you’re able to make their roosts, the more they’ll like them. Allow at least 4 square feet of space per bird if they’re to be closed in at night but free-ranging during the day. Plan for more space if you’ll want to keep them enclosed full time if, for example, you’ll be going on vacation or if you have regular severe weather such as ice storms.

Roosts should be rounded. There’s a theory that the flat side of 2x4s will help guineas cover their feet better and prevent frostbite, but this is based on an incorrect understanding of how a guinea’s legs work. Remember that guineas evolved roosting in trees. Their legs can fully retract only when their feet are curled. Forcing their feet into a flat position puts pressure on the leg tendons, and the leg resists retracting. Their feet can tuck up under their feathers and closer to their body heat when the toes are curled. In addition, and curled toot is actually the relaxed leg position for the bird. Watch them walk – the toes curl when the leg is lifted; the leg is extended when the foot is flat on the ground.

If you have the luxury of designing your coop from scratch, you’ll come to appreciate including an electric outlet, a separate nursery-apartment, and poop shelves. In a poll of our thousands of our online community, the responses to What do you wish you’d done differently in building your coop were: